Reflections on Pakistan

After arriving back in Portland on Thursday night (my luggage is still somewhere behind me), I have had time to reflect upon what I witnessed while spending a week in the Northwest Frontier of Pakistan. I am sure I will discern more insights as time goes by and further return visits occur, but these are a few observations I have made:

1. The people are incredibly gracious and eager hosts. An understanding about being a guest in this area of the world is fundamental to entering their identity and their culture. If you are a guest in someone's home, you eat before they do, you are protected by all the assets at their disposal and even if you are their worst enemy and you ask for assylum in their home, you will receive a gracious reception at their instigation. If danger occurs, they will give their life before your life. It is an amazing part of their culture. Even though many associate with the war in Afghanistan by their common history and heritage, they can differentiate between an American in uniform and an American in their homes, eating their food, and learning their customs. In essence, they can distinguish between the acts of government and the relationships of American people. Their concept of guest enables this to occur.

2. These people practice their religion. Islam is more than a theory or belief system, it is a part of their daily life and common speech. "In Shallah" are words you hear most often--"God willing." Every commitment made, every appointment scheduled and every promise shared includes the phrase "God willing." With the hour-long conversation I had with a Mullah there, the essence of Islam, as he described it, was an active response to God's authority in order for peace to enter our world. Five times daily one cannot avoid the invitation to pray. Business deals stop for the time. An evening call to prayer interrupted one political rally I went to and the speaker respectfully stopped speaking and waited until the call to prayer ended. Gifts are given, alms shared, and help given all to honor Allah.

3. The Northwest Frontier is not lawless. It just doesn't value very highly the government in Islamabad. Unfortunately, as most Pakistani's will agree, the country is broken. Ironically, on my return to the U.S. I hailed a taxi cab driver who grew up in Swabi, the very town I went to visit, and when he described Pakistani's, he said "We are very unlucky..." The government spends most of its resources on the military, it seems. When I traveled around Islamabad, they had the best real estate, the building was centered around the military complex and very little money seems to be going to infrastructure items like education and medical. Too much graft means that any monies actually allocated get taken away from the very projects who desperately need every penny they can get. So, the are unlucky in the sense that there is no common dream for the entire country. There is no call like the U.S. received from John F. Kennedy to put a man on the moon. No one is asking them to reach for greatness, to make the sacrifices as a nation to build a better future for their children. No leader has yet emerged that puts the interest of the common person ahead of their own political power and money grabbing. Thus, there is a healthy distaste for a government whose priorities do not include them. From the government's perspective, they seem to be lawless. But in practice, they are very structured and there is a clear authority line established, maintained and practiced. Sure, there are always rogue elements and extremism is certainly present. But to the vast majority of Pashtuns, wise elders and chiefs set the course for their areas of influence and wise leaders make for safe and dynamic districts. There is clear right and wrong actions and the operative principles are clear to everyone.

4. The people are increasingly aware that education is their ticket to a better life. Literacy in Pakistan is horrifyingly low. Literacy rates are established on the low common denominator of whether you can write your name--not whether you can read a book or write a letter to someone. Even with that low threshold, most people cannot read or write. This must be challenged. The people must insist that everyone get a good education which will open doors to a better job and a better life, but it will also enrich their life on this earth as it opens their minds to new concepts and new tools. I heard from many, many people that they understand this dynamic and want to begin to make a difference for themselves with or without governmental assistance.

5. Pakistan is a third-world country. It is dirty and no one seems to care. The roads are horrible--with the exception of some wonderful roadways between the large cities. Electricity in the entire nation is inconsistent. As modern as Islamabad is, there are still an hour or so during the day when the electricity goes off. Ten years ago they knew they needed to expand their electricity output, but nothing has been done and now the growth has created a demand for electricity that is not being met. Medical care is insufficient and inadequate. Schools are sub-par in too many places. There is a lack of political and economic leadership. Increasingly, the country is being driven by the vision of the local mullah and oftentimes, they too, are uneducated...not all, by any means, but too many.

6. Pakistan is a wonderful, vibrant and alive country. The people are extremely adaptable and hard working. If a job needs to be done, there is always someone to do it, no matter how good or bad the job is. It is the birthplace of Buddhism, and the Sihk religion and also the place where the disciple Thomas brought Christianity to India. It has mountains filled with snow...the second highest mountain in the world is in this country...and its ground is fertile. Its farming techniques are needing updating, but the land will produce much. It is a young country, primarily because the average life span ends in their 50's. But with the strength of the young, this country can become a major force for improvement in the future if they are given a chance and encouraged to do so.

I plan on returning often to this country now that my friend resides there and I can always find a place to be "guest" and receive the graciousness of my friends.

Mind Altering Events

As Timothy Leary once put it, I’ve just gone through a major perception-altering experience. Let’s put it succinctly—what you see on the television is not the reality on the ground. Yes, we are in the middle of an election cycle here which puts emotions in high gear—not because of terrorism but because the people of Pakistan need effective leadership to give them a chance at a better life. Their perception of politicians is similar to ours in that they believe and have experienced more than we the corruption of the politicians and the lack of monies coming down to make a difference in the over 160 million people who call Pakistan home. But in spite of the heightened state of awareness and anxiety here about their futures, there is a generous spirit and hospitality that is part of the core fabric of the culture here in Pakistan.

We have visited numerous places already—how does snow in Pakistan sound to you? Yesterday, we went into the highlands overlooking Kashmir and ate a wonderful meal in the house of a friend at 6,000 feet altitude. The day before, we arrived at 8 a.m. in the morning and drove to a house in Peshawar where we took a nap, ate another wonderful meal in the sun and then traveled from Peshawar to Islamabad where we spent the night. Though there is little heat in the homes, the houses we are staying in are marble-floored, six or seven bedroom houses in nice neighborhoods.

Both days have been spent in dialogue with the main mover-and-shaker of the Swabi district where the first schools will be launched. His fear is not reprisals against a western school nor is it fear of someone getting hurt who is from America or the west. Rather, he is concerned that we will not fulfill our promises. He has seen and heard promises from people and governments his entire life and hasn’t seen follow-through from any of them. My biggest task is to convince him that this is important enough—combining the cultures and friendship of two different worlds through education—that we will not let him down nor start something we cannot finish.

A word about the Taliban. The Taliban is not an extremist terrorist organization. It is what everybody is in this region. Taliban means “student” and has the connotation that everyone who is Taliban is “learning” the ways of God. Yes, there are radical elements to the Taliban like radical elements in other religions (do I mention Waco here?), but the overall sense is that of spiritual and intellectual explorer. In reading the papers, I have sensed a great resistance by the Pakistani people to the radical elements within the Taliban. They, too, are distressed by the dangerous and treacherous ways some employ and want them eradicated as much as we do. Though there are no guarantees in life, I feel very safe and am planning on going to a political rally tonight.

I am also meeting today or tomorrow with a Mullah (religious scholar). He is one of 10 highly educated mullah’s within Pakistan who has a doctorate as well as speaks English very well. I am being represented to him as a Mullah from America in Christianity and we are going to share time together becoming friends and building trust. As you already know, many mullah’s are poorly educated and basically offer brainwashing to their adherents, but this Mullah is different. I’ll tell you how the visit goes in my next blog. Needless to say, I am looking forward to spending time with this man.

Anyway, I’ll continue to update you as I continue this journey through next Tuesday. Here are some pictures of Pakistan.


It has been an amazing week. We have traveled extensively in the Northwest Region of Pakistan seeing the sights and visiting with literally hundreds of people—unfortunately for me, I have forgotten the names of so many of them. We have gone to the birthplace of Buddhism; seen the original miracle of the Sikh religion where a huge boulder was on its way to crush and maim a village and this man of God went and held the rock back with his the power God gave him; and were turned back from seeing the cross of St. Thomas, the birthplace of Christianity in India where the disciple of Jesus entered the land.

The weather is below freezing at night, but warms up into the 50’s during the day. The food is fabulous, provided you enjoy curry which I do. Yesterday, we went to a large lake and ate fish by the side of the shore and enjoyed the beautiful day. This evening we are going to eat at a restaurant overlooking the city of Islamabad.

We all went to the village of Swabi where the school will open this September. We have visited mosques and mullah’s; we have been front and center in the political dynamic there since there is just as much concern about Americans being in this place as we are concerned about being in this place. But, truly, much prejudice has been broken down by our myriad appearances in different places and by our hosts explaining, introducing, and being non-anxious about our Americanism. Where we are spending the bulk of our time there is absolutely no danger to us and the district is under very safe conditions. There are no “foreigners” meaning people who are not known are simply not allowed in to stay any length of time and are ushered out of the district. Most of the conflict within Pakistan is related to foreigners from outside—Saudi, Uzbekistan, etc.—coming in and creating unrest which the elders of the tribes to differing success have had to deal with and manage. Waziristan is in most trouble because the rogue elements have overtaken the ability of the elders to control. The Swabi district has no such trouble and will not due to their diligence and understanding of the larger situation.

The school will be open to 300 students from poor families who could not afford education on any level and who can come to learn English as well as the other important subjects of education based upon a western model and not a Madras’s model of rote memorization.

Pictures of Dubai

Here are a few pictures of Dubai's building projects and skyline:

Arrival in Dubai

After 25 hours on the plane or in the airport, we arrived dead tired in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, on Saturday morning at 4:30 a.m. Because of the British Airways crash the day before, our connections were all messed up and we missed our connection to Dubai because our flight was delayed 3 hours in Seattle. We took a later flight into Dubai and arrived dead tired--slept 3 hours--and began sight-seeing on Saturday late morning. I have never seen a combination of wealth and building projects in my life. It is amazing. Put any city building project you've ever seen and multiply it by 100 or a 1000. Cranes are everywhere, condos are being built and they are only being built after every condo has been pre-sold! The prices range from $1 million to $15 million for units on the beach and there are literally a hundred thousand being built--I am not exaggerating. Don Beck, our micro-economic specialist with us who knows his concrete, says that there are so many concrete making machines that make the concrete from scratch right on the spot. The world's tallest building is being built. Presently, it has 85 stories built and it will end with 150. I'll post a picture of it for you. It is a beautiful, clean, well-ordered city.

This will be much different from the city of Peshawar we will travel to on Tuesday morning at 4 a.m. for a three hour flight. We are traveling to the Swabi district of Pakistan to assess the possibility of being a project called H.A.N.D.S.--Helping Another Nation Develop Schools. We are going to Pakistan's most lawless area to build western style schools for the children there and combine it with micro-economic projects to give jobs and a future to the people there. We will also travel to Islamabad and into Kashmir during the next week while I am there, and the rest of the group with me will continue on for another week.

I'll keep you updated as often as I can. Things don't work like they do in the States so we'll do things the way they work in Pakistan. Pray for us as we talk to many, many people--some who are in favor, some opposed, and some figuring out how they can turn it to their own advantage. We need all the prayer support we can get.

The weather here is excellent--about 60 degrees each day. Feels like spring to us--cold to everyone around here. Enjoy the week-end. Bob

Getting ready to leave

The trip to Pakistan begins at 4:30 p.m. at the Portland airport as we begin our flight to Heathrow airport via Seattle. A non-stop to London and a two-hour layover before our 5 hour flight to Dubai, United Arab Emirates where we will stay for three days raising money and resting up prior to leaving on Tuesday morning for Peshawar, Pakistan where the Mullah is supposed to meet us at the airport and take us to the Swabi region of the Northwest Territories in Pakistan.

I will attempt to post on the blog as frequently as I have internet access--my goal is every day or so.

Off to Pakistan!

Please pray for everyone in my group that is traveling to Pakistan this week that we will be safe and learn all that we can about the needs of the people in this region as we work to expand the direction of the Portland Kids programs beyond our own borders. More posts will come soon after we arrive there.

God Bless,

Bob

PK @ RCI - Fall 2007 Update

Organizations are living organisms. Sometimes we breathe in, sometimes we breathe out. Sometimes, even, we have to adjust to changing circumstances. This is what Portland Kids is facing at the present moment. The area we have been serving for almost 20 years is following in the same pattern. Young families are moving into our neighborhoods and poor families, the very ones we have been working withy, are moving eastward into the Gresham area. The homes in this neighborhood are the last remaining homes within the greater Portland area that sell for under $250,000.

Thus, the board this past July authorized me to begin pursuing a location in the Gresham area where we can begin an identical work and continue to assist and build relationships with the families we are serving. To our surprise it didn't take long to find one! Springwater Nazarene is a church that spawned a private school ten years ago and that school spun off into the community as the "Phonics Factory." The gymnasium and numerous classrooms have been mostly unused since their departure five or six years ago. This church has agreed to house the new "Gresham Kids" program at their facility. This has saved Portland Kids thousands of dollars in rental and facility charges over the next number of years and we are incredibly grateful to their hosting our program as well as getting involved in the support of the Gresham Kids program.

This puts us within the reach of former families and children we have served in the past who have moved out to the eastside. There are schools to serve and children to equip to live well, love well, play well, and work well - all goals of our resilience program. This opens up doors of opportunity to serve more at-risk children with the tools they need to overcome the abuse, poverty, and cultural obstacles so many face.


Already, people are introducing to the business and political leaders of Gresham to allow me to tell the story of our work. Travis Stovall, the president of the Chamber of Commerce for Gresham, is personally supporting our program by introducing me to the five or six key business leaders in the Chamber. Linda Usher, a key mover in Gresham, is opening doors for me to meet the city council members to notify them of our work as well. Our development program begins right away contacting the 700+ businesses in the Chamber to solicit their understanding and support of who we are and what we do.

All this, in such a short time, takes my breath away. But I am truly excited because we can build on the support you have so graciously given us as well as knowing so many children and their families can be helped in the future.

Dr. Bob Bretsch