Reflections on Pakistan

After arriving back in Portland on Thursday night (my luggage is still somewhere behind me), I have had time to reflect upon what I witnessed while spending a week in the Northwest Frontier of Pakistan. I am sure I will discern more insights as time goes by and further return visits occur, but these are a few observations I have made:

1. The people are incredibly gracious and eager hosts. An understanding about being a guest in this area of the world is fundamental to entering their identity and their culture. If you are a guest in someone's home, you eat before they do, you are protected by all the assets at their disposal and even if you are their worst enemy and you ask for assylum in their home, you will receive a gracious reception at their instigation. If danger occurs, they will give their life before your life. It is an amazing part of their culture. Even though many associate with the war in Afghanistan by their common history and heritage, they can differentiate between an American in uniform and an American in their homes, eating their food, and learning their customs. In essence, they can distinguish between the acts of government and the relationships of American people. Their concept of guest enables this to occur.

2. These people practice their religion. Islam is more than a theory or belief system, it is a part of their daily life and common speech. "In Shallah" are words you hear most often--"God willing." Every commitment made, every appointment scheduled and every promise shared includes the phrase "God willing." With the hour-long conversation I had with a Mullah there, the essence of Islam, as he described it, was an active response to God's authority in order for peace to enter our world. Five times daily one cannot avoid the invitation to pray. Business deals stop for the time. An evening call to prayer interrupted one political rally I went to and the speaker respectfully stopped speaking and waited until the call to prayer ended. Gifts are given, alms shared, and help given all to honor Allah.

3. The Northwest Frontier is not lawless. It just doesn't value very highly the government in Islamabad. Unfortunately, as most Pakistani's will agree, the country is broken. Ironically, on my return to the U.S. I hailed a taxi cab driver who grew up in Swabi, the very town I went to visit, and when he described Pakistani's, he said "We are very unlucky..." The government spends most of its resources on the military, it seems. When I traveled around Islamabad, they had the best real estate, the building was centered around the military complex and very little money seems to be going to infrastructure items like education and medical. Too much graft means that any monies actually allocated get taken away from the very projects who desperately need every penny they can get. So, the are unlucky in the sense that there is no common dream for the entire country. There is no call like the U.S. received from John F. Kennedy to put a man on the moon. No one is asking them to reach for greatness, to make the sacrifices as a nation to build a better future for their children. No leader has yet emerged that puts the interest of the common person ahead of their own political power and money grabbing. Thus, there is a healthy distaste for a government whose priorities do not include them. From the government's perspective, they seem to be lawless. But in practice, they are very structured and there is a clear authority line established, maintained and practiced. Sure, there are always rogue elements and extremism is certainly present. But to the vast majority of Pashtuns, wise elders and chiefs set the course for their areas of influence and wise leaders make for safe and dynamic districts. There is clear right and wrong actions and the operative principles are clear to everyone.

4. The people are increasingly aware that education is their ticket to a better life. Literacy in Pakistan is horrifyingly low. Literacy rates are established on the low common denominator of whether you can write your name--not whether you can read a book or write a letter to someone. Even with that low threshold, most people cannot read or write. This must be challenged. The people must insist that everyone get a good education which will open doors to a better job and a better life, but it will also enrich their life on this earth as it opens their minds to new concepts and new tools. I heard from many, many people that they understand this dynamic and want to begin to make a difference for themselves with or without governmental assistance.

5. Pakistan is a third-world country. It is dirty and no one seems to care. The roads are horrible--with the exception of some wonderful roadways between the large cities. Electricity in the entire nation is inconsistent. As modern as Islamabad is, there are still an hour or so during the day when the electricity goes off. Ten years ago they knew they needed to expand their electricity output, but nothing has been done and now the growth has created a demand for electricity that is not being met. Medical care is insufficient and inadequate. Schools are sub-par in too many places. There is a lack of political and economic leadership. Increasingly, the country is being driven by the vision of the local mullah and oftentimes, they too, are uneducated...not all, by any means, but too many.

6. Pakistan is a wonderful, vibrant and alive country. The people are extremely adaptable and hard working. If a job needs to be done, there is always someone to do it, no matter how good or bad the job is. It is the birthplace of Buddhism, and the Sihk religion and also the place where the disciple Thomas brought Christianity to India. It has mountains filled with snow...the second highest mountain in the world is in this country...and its ground is fertile. Its farming techniques are needing updating, but the land will produce much. It is a young country, primarily because the average life span ends in their 50's. But with the strength of the young, this country can become a major force for improvement in the future if they are given a chance and encouraged to do so.

I plan on returning often to this country now that my friend resides there and I can always find a place to be "guest" and receive the graciousness of my friends.